Whole Beauty Part 5: A Real, Natural Routine

Since my post on using oils for skincare (Skin Revelations), I've received A LOT of questions and interest from friends about oils and natural skin care in general...

It's been about six months since I started changing from commercial beauty products to homemade, homeopathic alternatives.  Looking back, I realize I had to do quite a bit of research to find actual details and methods for making and using natural products.  Obviously, because many of these "products" I now use weren't originally intended to be cosmetic, they don't come with instructions for how to use them this way!  Thankfully I had help from my friend, Lauren (Naked Truth Beauty), but I had so many questions, and had to go to so many different sources to find answers, that it seemed important to try and chronicle a total, real beauty routine from the perspective of a "typical" woman.  Receiving so many questions from friends has only reinforced that idea.  So here is my story, and the gritty details of my daily beauty routine, hopefully answering some questions along the way:

As I switched to natural beauty products, I had some important demands:
1. Nothing gross (I'm not smearing raw eggs in my hair, thank you)
2. They have to work as well, if not better, than the commercial alternative

Because I've had so many problems with my skin over the years, I am extremely wary of trying new things.  Even though my old routine of [Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Cleanser + Cerave cream + Prescriptions] wasn't working (and often left my skin irritated and sad), I was still terrified of changing anything. What if I break out more??  What do dirty hippies know about skincare??  Well, turns out it's been easy to avoid demand #1, and demand #2 has been surpassed.  Hippies might know a thing or two...

For the last six months I have slowly phased out all of my old commercial products, including the prescriptions, and now have a completely natural routine.  I did this one step at a time, first changing cleansers, then moisturizers, and tapering off the prescriptions.  I think it's vital to do this slowly if you have "problematic" skin because a) it's important to isolate what's working, and what to blame if something doesn't work, and b) you have to give your body/face time to adjust.  Slow change is lasting change.

And now to the dirty (clean) details!

My Nighttime Routine

1. Oil Cleansing 
I sang ballads about the benefits of oil in my previous post (Skin Revelations).  Different oils are appropriate for different skin (here is a great blog post on choosing the right oil: Naked Truth Beauty - Choosing Oil).  I use jojoba oil exclusively - I haven't felt the need to blend because this oil alone has worked so beautifully for me

What I use:  Trader Joe's 100% Pure Jojoba Oil.  I store it in a glass stopper bottle I found at Whole Foods, just because I think it makes it easier to pour the oil, and less messy for travel.  I also use a clean baby washcloth (softer than a regular washcloth)

What I do: I use the medicine stopper to pour about this much oil in my (clean) hands...

and I massage this oil directly onto my face, make up and all.  I don't wet my face first because this can interfere with the oil's ability to attract dirt, sebum, and make up.  While I'm gently massaging the oil in, I let the water get hot.  Then I douse the clean washcloth in the hot water, and press the cloth onto my face, allowing the warmth and steam to open my pores.  Then I rinse the washcloth, and gently begin wiping off the make up and oil.  I continue rinsing and wiping until I've removed all my make up.  Then I dry my face with a clean towel.  

If I'm showering at night, I just massage the oil in before I step in the shower, and then use my washcloth as I normally would.

Your skin will not have that dry, tight feeling that I once associated with "clean."  The first time you do this you may have heart palpitations thinking "there's oil all over my face, I'm breaking out right this second!"  Then you discover jojoba oil is better at removing make up and grime than any cleanser you've ever tried, AND your skin is baby soft, glowing, and poreless.  1 point to the hippies.

2. Magical Toner

There are people who have created cults for Apple Cider Vinegar.  They drink it and bathe in it and try to convince you to do the same thing.  Drinking ACV violates demand #1 (nothing gross), because it smells like feet.  But I am happy to put it on my face because the ACV cult did get one thing right, and that's that it's really good for acne-prone skin.  So is Witch Hazel.  People have been using Witch Hazel as a toner for hundreds of years.  It's great for tightening pores and battling acne.  Both ACV and WH are too drying to use on your face alone; however, combined and diluted with water, they make a lovely, gentle toner.  

What I use: 1 part Bragg's Organic ACV, 1 part Humphrey's alcohol-free WH, and 2 parts water.  In an attempt to make this odd concoction smell a little better, I steeped a green tea bag in it.  I'm not sure it made a difference in the smell, but green tea is packed with antioxidants and anti-aging magic, so it can't hurt!  

What I do: Apply a small amount of your homemade toner with a clean cotton or cloth, morning and night, after cleansing.

Depending on how dry or sensitive your skin is, you may or may not feel the need to use a toner at all.  I find it helps keep my skin clear, so I use it morning and night, but I would recommend adding this step in later after you've transitioned cleansers.  

3. Moisturizer

Again, with the oil, Katey!  No but seriously, put oil on your face.  

What I use: Trader Joe's 100% Pure Jojoba Oil, and a small amount of Trader Joe's antioxidant facial moisturizer.  

What I do: I used to use just a few drops of oil all over, but I found that it can take a while for this to absorb.  Because I often go to bed right after this nighttime routine, I was irritated by cat fur or hair sticking my face (violation of demand 1!).  I found that mixing a small amount of this gentle, aloe-based moisturizer  with a few drops of oil makes the oil absorb into my skin much faster. 

Why not just use a moisturizer that already contains oil, you ask?  By mixing it myself, I know exactly what and how much I'm using.  

My Morning Routine

1. Honey Cleansing

Honey is simply wonderful for acne-prone skin.  It is a gentle healing cleanser with natural antibacterial properties.  It helps prevent surface bacteria from becoming an acne infection, and it also helps fade acne hyperpigmentation.  I would highly recommend trying this if you have any struggle with acne, unless of course you are vegan, in which case you may want to try a more bee-friendly option.  

What I use: I always have a pot of Trader Joe's Organic Raw Honey.  It's important to use "raw" honey because this means it hasn't been processed with heat or chemicals, and thus contains the highest amount of natural antibacterial goodness.  I supplement this with another kind of honey, usually sourced from a different geographical location - right now, I'm trying Manuka Honey from New Zealand, which is "so hot right now" in the Honey World.  I mix up my honeys (hehe) because acne is a bacteria and bacteria are tricky and can become resistant to one kind of treatment.  Be smarter than the bacteria!

What I do: I wet my face with warm water, and scoop about a teaspoon of honey into my clean hands.  I warm it in my hands, doing my best to dissolve some of the sugar crystals (you don't want to irritate your face by scratching it with crystals).  Then I spread it on my face and leave it on for about a minute.  I use this time to try to remember what day it is, and where I'm supposed to be... this is challenging in the morning.  Then I gently rinse, and dry.

I follow this up with my ACV-WH toner, and a few drops of jojoba oil as moisturizer.  And make up, wonderful make up.  That's a whole other post.

I don't think I can attribute all of the changes my skin has made to any one part of this routine.  As I've slowly changed out my commercial beauty products for natural ones, I've experienced gradual improvement in all areas I've struggled with (oiliness, acne, irritation, redness, shine, roughness, and any other description of general skin distress you can think of).  My demands were met, and then surpassed, because I also know I'm using products that are better for humans, animals, and the environment.  There is no compromise here, for me, only results.  

I hope this has answered some questions, or helped you consider switching up one or two things in your own routine.  Do you have natural remedies that you rely on?  What changes have you made for the better that you'd want other women to know about?  Fill me in!

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Whole Beauty Part 2: Skin Revelations

A lot of women I know dislike their skin.  I'm right there with you. 

But I've recently started a new beauty journey, and I want to take you with me!

Those close to me know that I have struggled with problematic skin for over a decade.  Since the age of 13, I've battled oiliness, dryness (yes, both), redness, and seemingly endless breakouts.  So much skin sadness!

There's one refrain heard from anyone who struggles with similar skin issues - "I've tried everything."  When a person says this, I believe her, because I know that she really has tried everything.  Because I really really really have tried everything.

Over the counter products, like Neutrogena, Cetaphil, CeraVe...

Mid-range products, like Clinique, Murad, Philosophy...

TV infomercial products, like Proactiv, Exposed...

"Natural" products, like Burt's Bees, Say Yes, Alba...

Prestige products, like Somme, Dr. Hauschka, Clarisonic...

I have visited the naturopath and tried elimination diets, "liver-cleansing" supplements, herbs and tonics.

I have visited the dermatologist and taken antibiotics, hormone-altering medications, prescription topicals

I have tried benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sea buckthorn, witch hazel, facials, steaming, retinols.  Endless cleansers, toners, moisturizers, masks, tonics, soaks, scrubs, exfoliators, bars, creams, and compresses.

I eat a healthy, balanced diet.  I exercise regularly, and cleanse after.  I drink 8 glasses of water.  I change my towels and pillow cases every other day.  I leave offerings for skin gods.

I have even tried total Acceptance.  Doing nothing - no cleansing, moisturizing, touching, or even thinking too hard about my skin.

Nothing works.

I was still oily or dry, still had excessive redness.  And years of using harsh products made me feel like I was torturing my face.  I knew I just hadn’t found The Key yet – my skin wanted to be healthy, I just didn’t know how to take care of it.

I think about this as a “dark side” to my otherwise very positive feelings about beauty and make up.  And because I love to apply, and read about, and research, and think about make up and beauty products, I’m frequently talking with friends (and strangers) about their beauty routines.  If I see a woman who has beautiful skin, or who has clearly put energy into doing lovely or artistic make up, I want to compliment her and find out her secrets. 

Sometimes a woman with beautiful skin will say something super annoying like, “I eat a lot of blueberries,” or “Ponds cold cream.”  And we both know that most of us average Janes could eat a flat of blueberries and bathe in Ponds and still not have the same genetically-blessed flawless finish.

And then sometimes you talk to someone who has battled all the same issues as you, who has also tried everything, and then found The Key, and come out on the other side with lovely, healthy, glowing skin.  And she wants to share all of her secrets!  And she starts a blog to tell other women about all the toxins in their beauty products, and how they can transform their skin, and help the environment, just by doing what’s natural.  And she’s so effing gorgeous you will do whatever she says.  That’s my friend, Lauren Evashenk, and her awesome blog Naked Truth Beauty.

Lauren’s Key, and my Skin Revelation, is the magic of oil.  In particular, for me, pure jojoba oil.  Get the full story in her post.  As she explains, oil is the most perfect skin nourishment.  Jojoba in particular is chemically identical to the oil our skin naturally produces (sebum).  Thus when we use it, our skin recognizes it as its own moisture – a friendly beast that need not be battled with inflammation.  Not only that, but oil can be used as a cleanser as well.  Jojoba oil removes excess oil from your skin (it makes sense, oil removes oil), and draws impurities out of your pores, without disrupting the chemical balance of your face.

I’ve learned that using common beauty products starts a vicious cycle.  Cleansers and toners remove our skin’s natural oils.  We moisturize with water-based, oil-free creams and lotions to counteract the dryness from the cleanser.  However, our skin still senses its been stripped of its own moisture, and starts to produce more sebum.  The excess sebum causes our pores to enlarge, and often become infected with acne.  We’ve cleansed and moisturized, but our skin is either dry or oily (or both).  Then we use more products to try to kill the acne bacteria.  We exfoliate to slough off the layers of dead skin that accumulate from all these harsh treatments.  It seems like no matter what we do, our skin is shiny, dull, lifeless, patchy, and broken out. 

Lauren points out how this cycle produces a reliance on commercial beauty products.  Those with “problem skin” need to use “oil free” products because, we’re told, oil is the enemy and will make you break out.  While its true that not all oils are appropriate for your face (read about that here), it can actually be the solution to many of the problems it purportedly causes.

And the best part?  A 4oz bottle of pure jojoba oil from Trader Joe’s is $8.  I’ve paid more money just to talk about skin care. 

So let’s get real, does this work? 

It may not be the solution to every single problem your skin presents.  I don’t (yet) believe that oil alone will alleviate the worst breakouts.  I recognize that acne is, at its core, a bacterial infection that may have to be treated medically.  I’m not saying fire your dermatologist. 

But I am saying that, given the best treatment, skin wants to be healthy, and healthy is beautiful.  When I use oil, my pores diminish, my skin is plump, and I’m neither shiny nor dry.  I don’t know if anyone is stopping me on the street yet to say, “Hey gorgeous, what’s your routine?”  But for the first time in about 15 years, I like my skin.  My new routine is using oil, accepting flaws, celebrating health, and taking care of myself.  Oh and mascara.  I really like mascara.

More to come on make up and beauty in my next post!

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XOXO